Monday, December 15, 2008

Fast Food Comes to Paonia...

Well, it finally happened. Fast Food has come to Paonia. Not having fast food chains or traffic lights always gave me bragging rights with big city friends, who marveled at our backwardness. It was a way to thumb our noses at the suburban bourgeoisie. Somehow we were "pure", untainted by the commercialism of a Fast Food Nation. Locally owned restaurants seem more authentic and connected to me.

I was pleasantly surprised when our local greasy grill and gas station was getting a remodel. "Peppers" had gone down hill in recent years, to the point where I was not only scared to buy their food, but even going in the place was dicey. It had the "rural meth-amphetamine" vibe to it.

However, it was part of a dying breed. The independently owned grill/gas station is part of American Epicurean Myth. Linked with visions of carhops and Route 66. Over the past few years there has been a renaissance of sorts in Paonia. The local art deco movie theater got an awesome makeover (it's great to be able to buy a beer to go with your popcorn); a swanky new coffee shop, the local hippie health food store is now an elegant restaurant that features local food and wine. So I was hoping that "Peppers" was going down the same road. It was a good grill at one point and I hoped the new owners would restore it to its former glory and more.

I was shocked to see a neon "Subway" sign go up. In a community that prides itself on the virtues of buying and eating local food and has the most organic farms, orchards and ranches of any county in Colorado, this had somehow sneaked in under the radar. On the other hand I was kind of glad to have another option in a town with few restaurants, even if it was just a "Subway". I did not want to engage in a "knee jerk boycott" and I knew I would eventually eat there.

In a small town everything closes on Sunday and I needed to get 4 hungry teenage boys something to eat while they watched football on the big screen at the theater. Subway was an obvious choice. The place was clean, almost sterile, a utilitarian environment, which was nice change from the previous incarnation. 3 local teens were working there and were taking their jobs seriously, which is better than the usual bored slacker attitude common to low paying, fast food careers. I am sure they will get there eventually. I also found out it the owners are locals I know, which takes a little of the sting out of the chain food invasiveness.

They seem to have hit upon a gold mine, the place is always packed. Every time I drive by the line is almost out the door. I guess Paonia was "hungry" for something like this. Something familiar and predictable.

I find I have a range of reactions to the Subway arrival.
  • Pride that our little town has a national chain.
  • Sadness that mainstream commercialism has found our out-of-the way-valley.
  • Embarrassment that going to Subway is such a big deal for my kids.
And finally, I find it interesting that something that is innocuous in an urban area would have such an effect on me.

No comments: